Fluchtkogel
Ötztal Verified partner
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DescentPhoto: Ötztal
Popular route destination in the area of the Vernagthütte (closed in winter 24/25, no winter room either)
From the Vernagthütte - closed in winter 24/25, no winter room either - on a path over the moraine to the Guslarferner, which you enter shortly before the rain gauge. Over the crevassed Guslarferner up to the Upper Guslarjoch (3,361 m). From here steeply over the firn slope (sometimes iced). Finally flattening out again to the summit.
Author’s recommendation
Reservation of hut sleeping places required!
Vernagthütte - closed in winter 24/25, no winter room either
Please observe the current snow and avalanche report for the coming days:
https://www.oetztal.com/de/winter.html & https://avalanche.report/albina-web/bulletin/2019-01-07?lang=de
Ötztal Verified partner
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Show elevation profileSafety information
Avalanche hazard scale
1 (LOW) Avalanche release is only possible under heavy additional load on very few, extreme steep slopes. Spontaneous avalanches (so-called slides) are not expected. Generally safe conditions.
2 (MODERATE) Avalanche release is likely under heavy additional load especially on the specified steep slopes. Larger avalanches are not expected. The snow cover is generally well consolidated except for some steep slopes. Careful route selection at the specified steep slopes and exposures.
3 (CONSIDERABLE) Avalanche release is already likely under slight additional load especially on the specified steep slopes. Occasionally some medium-sized, and occasionally large avalanches may occur spontaneously. The snow cover is moderately to weakly consolidated on many steep slopes. Experience in avalanche assessment is necessary. Avoid specified steep slopes and exposures if possible.
4 (HIGH) Avalanche release is already possible under slight additional load especially on the specified steep slopes. Occasionally many medium and also large avalanches occur. On many steep slopes the snow cover is weakly consolidated. Route choice should be restricted to moderately steep terrain and avalanche run-out areas must be observed. Extensive experience in avalanche assessment is necessary.
5 (VERY HIGH) Numerous large avalanches, even in moderately steep terrain, are expected spontaneously. At this warning level, safe operation is no longer possible in ski areas. The snow cover is generally weakly consolidated and unstable. Avoid routes altogether.
See also at lawine.tirol.gv.at
Tips and suggestions
Ski Touring Rules
Observe the applicable regulations during all activities in nature and when choosing routes (e.g. wildlife protection areas, hunting closure zones, reforestation areas, information boards, etc.)
Respect quiet zones for wildlife and avoid feeding areas as well as loud noise
Travel through forested areas in winter preferably only on authorized paths and routes; animals react very panicked to unlocatable noise.
Recognize the habitats of wild animals, avoid them if possible. Observe wildlife only from a distance. Dogs carried along must be kept on a leash at all times; it is absolutely irresponsible to let dogs roam freely in the forest during the winter emergency period.
Proper time planning: start early enough and return before dark. In spring you should be back on the hut by noon (avalanche danger).
Never go through reforestation and young growth areas.
Ötztal Tourism assumes no liability for the listed routes and recommends taking along a mountain guide.
Before starting a route, inform someone in the valley of your destination and expected return time. Carrying an avalanche transceiver is strongly recommended.
Public transport
Travel comfortably and safely by train to the Ötztal train station. The terminal or exit point is the ÖTZTAL station. Afterwards, travel conveniently and quickly by public transport or local taxi companies through the entire valley to your desired destination! The current bus timetable is available at: http://fahrplan.vvt.atDirections
The car trip to ÖTZTAL. Located in Tyrol, the Ötztal branches off to the south as the longest side valley of the Eastern Alps. Travelling by car takes holidaymakers over the Inn Valley to the valley entrance and further along the Ötztal. Besides the toll motorway, country roads can also be used. The route planner allows you to determine your trip quickly and conveniently: To the route planner: https://www.google.at/mapsParking
In the mountaineering village Vent, the following parking options are available.
- In summer outside the village (parking meter, coins or EC card only) and at the valley station of the chairlift (at the mountain railway ticket office)
- In winter only at the valley station of the chairlift.
Cost: € 5.00 per day/car
Coordinates
Book recommendation by the author
Author’s map recommendations
Kompass #042 | Inner Ötztal and Pitztal, Gurgler Valley, Venter Valley | 1:25,000
Kompass #43 | Ötztal Alps, Ötztal, Pitztal | 1:50,000
Freytag&Bernd WK 251 | Ötztal, Pitztal, Kaunertal, Wildspitze | 1:25,000
Equipment
Recommended ski touring equipment
The "normal ski touring equipment" consists of touring skis with touring bindings, telescopic poles, climbing skins, crampons, digital avalanche transceiver, avalanche shovel, avalanche probe, first aid kit, and a mobile phone. A "complete glacier equipment" includes harnesses, two differently sized Prusik loops or ascenders, two HMS carabiners, ice axe, crampons, and a rope. A backpack with appropriate contents should be carried, including spare clothing, sun protection, cold protection, provisions, and enough to drink! For hut overnight stays, do not forget hygiene articles and a hut sleeping bag!
DIFFICULTY RATING
Easy: Easy, short to moderately long routes with ascents that do not exceed 25° or only briefly.
Medium: Medium difficulty, moderately long to long routes with ascents that do not exceed 35° or only briefly.
Difficult: Difficult, long to very long routes with ascents that reach 40° or more, and climbing sections up to UIAA grade II difficulty.
Localization
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Statistics
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