Alpine Tour
· Ötztal
From Vent to Hintere Schwärze at 3,624 m
Ötztal Verified partner
At 3,628 metres, the Hintere Schwärze (Cima Nera in Italian) rises in silent dignity above the glacier realms of the Ötztal Alps. As the fourth-highest peak of the range, it holds a powerful presence—its very name evokes a sense of awe. First climbed in 1867 by Ernst Pfeiffer from Vienna, together with mountain guides Benedikt Klotz and Josef Scheiber, it remains a destination for mountaineers drawn to the raw and unspoiled.
The ascent from the Martin-Busch Hut via the Marzellferner glacier to the west ridge is demanding, yet deeply rewarding. Steep snow slopes, crevasses, and wide glacier fields require alpine experience, stamina, and a steady mind. Those who reach the summit are gifted with one of the most majestic panoramas in the Ötztal Alps—views stretching to Similaun, Weißkugel, and Ortler that linger in memory.
Lying in the quiet shadow of its more famous neighbors, Hintere Schwärze reveals its true strength in solitude. It’s not a mountain that easily gives itself away—it opens only to those willing to approach with respect and commitment. For seasoned alpinists, it offers an experience of rare intensity and lasting depth.
Author’s recommendation
Reservation of the hut sleeping places necessary.
Ötztal Verified partner
Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
Track types
Safety information
For high alpine experienced mountaineers that are free from vertigo & surefooted. Excellent physical condition, extensive mountain experience, alpine climbing gear, safety- and orientation guide, good weather conditions recommended. Please pay attention to the current weather report: www.oetztal.comTips and suggestions
More details about hiking In Ötztal: https://www.oetztal.com/wandernRoadbook
Vent - Martin-Busch-Hütte
Von Vent zum Ochsenkopflift, den rauen Forstweg weiter folgen bis dieser dann links ins Niedertal abzweigt. Vorbei am Hohlen Stein, der Beschilderung folgend bis zu Schäferhütte. Dem mäßig ansteigendem breiten Weg weiter bis zur Martin Busch Hütte. (2.501 m); Gehzeit: 2 ½ Stunden.
Martin-Busch-Hütte - Hintere Schwärze
Von der Hütte kurz taleinwärts über die Brücke und über den Niederjochbach bis zum Fuße des Marzellkammes. Den Fuß des Kammes querend und später dann absteigend zum Marzellgletscher. Über den Gletscher (im unteren Teil meist schneefrei) hinauf bis zu den Eisbrüchen. Nun entweder rechts an den Eisbrüchen vorbei und dahinter über spaltenreiches Terrain auf den oberen Gletscherboden oder von hier über den Felsgrat (Stellen II), teilweise sehr luftig, zum Gipfel; Gehzeit: ca. 5 Stunden
Hintere Schwärze - Vent
Abstieg über Firn- und Eisgrat in westlicher Richtung auf ca. 3.400 m nach links ins Gletscherbecken zwischen Hinterer Schwärze und östlicher Marzellspitze querend und weiter hinunter auf den oberen Gletscherboden. Weiter über den Marzellgletscher zum Fuße des Marzellkammes und zurück durch das Niedertal nach Vent; Gehzeit 5,5 Stunden
Gesamtstrecke
Aufstieg: Von Vent zum Gipfel ca. 7 ½ Std. Gehzeit
Abstieg: Vom Gipfel nach Vent ca. 5 ½ Std. Gehzeit
Hollow Stone
Martin Busch Hütte
Niederjochbach
Hintere Schwärze
Public transport
Enjoy a both comfortable and relaxing train ride to the train station in Ötztal Bahnhof. You get off the train in ÖTZTAL Bahnhof where you change to a public bus or local taxi. The current bus schedule can be found at: http://fahrplan.vvt.atDirections
Vent is located in the western part of Austria in the state TYROL, in a southern side valley of the Inn valley - the ÖTZTAL. For your arrival by car, you can plan the best route from your home town with the route planner online at https://www.google.at/mapsParking
The following parking options are available in the mountaineering village Vent- In summertime in front of the village (parking machine, only coins or EC card) and at the chairlift (at the ticket office of the mountain railways)
- In wintertime only at the chairlift
Parking fees apply!
Coordinates
Equipment
It is recommended to wear hiking equipment such as breathable and weather-adapted outdoor clothing, ankle-high mountain boots, wind, rain and sun protection, cap and possibly gloves. It is also important to have enough food, as well as a first-aid package, a cell phone and a hiking map.Derived from the technical difficulty and the stamina requirements.
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