From Vent to Hintere Schwärze at 3,624 m
Map & elevation profile
The Tour
Vent - Martin-Busch Hut - Hintere Schwärze - Martin-Busch Hut - Vent
Hintere Schwärze – The dark soul of the Ötztal Alps
Rising 3,628 meters, the Hintere Schwärze (Italian: Cima Nera) stands silently and majestically over the glacier sea of the Ötztal Alps. It is the fourth highest peak of the mountain range – a mountain of impressive presence whose name alone inspires awe. Its first ascent in 1867 by Ernst Pfeiffer from Vienna with mountain guides Benedikt Klotz and Josef Scheiber was a pioneering act – today it remains a destination for climbers with a feel for the pristine.
The ascent from the Martin-Busch Hut via the Marzellferner to the west ridge is demanding but rewarding. Steep firn slopes, crevasses and vast ice fields require alpine experience, endurance and a clear mind. Those who reach the summit are rewarded with one of the most sublime views in the Ötztal – a view of the ice giants Similaun, Weißkugel and Ortler that lingers.
Off the well-known routes, the Hintere Schwärze lies in the half-shadow of its famous neighbors – yet this silence is what makes it so special. It is not a mountain that opens itself easily – but one that opens to those willing to engage. For experienced alpinists, it is a goal of deep intensity and lasting memory.
Glacier equipment necessary. Recommended with a mountain guide.
Reservation of hut sleeping places required!
Regions & Places
Mountain areas
Details
Characteristics
Way types
Safety guidelines
For those free from dizziness, sure-footed and experienced in high alpine climbing; excellent physical condition, extensive mountain experience, alpine climbing equipment, securing and orientation tools, good weather conditions recommended Please note the current weather report at: https://www.oetztal.com/de/sommer.html
Hiking difficulty
Additional information
More info about hiking in the Ötztal: https://www.oetztal.com/wandern
Directions
Vent - Martin-Busch Hut
From Vent to the Ochsenkopflift, continue along the rough forest path until it branches left into the Niedertal. Passing the Hohlen Stein, follow the signposts to the Schäferhütte. Continue along the moderately ascending wide path to the Martin Busch Hut. (2,501 m); walking time: 2 ½ hours.
Martin-Busch Hut - Hintere Schwärze
From the hut, briefly go downhill towards the valley over the bridge and across the Niederjochbach to the foot of the Marzell ridge. Cross the foot of the ridge and later descend to the Marzell glacier. Over the glacier (mostly snow-free in the lower part) up to the icefalls. Now either pass the icefalls on the right and from there over crevasse-rich terrain to the upper glacier surface or from here over the rock ridge (sections II), partly very exposed, to the summit; walking time: approx. 5 hours
Hintere Schwärze - Vent
Descent over firn and ice ridge in a westerly direction to approx. 3,400 m, crossing left into the glacier basin between Hintere Schwärze and the eastern Marzellspitze and further down to the upper glacier surface. Continue over the Marzell glacier to the foot of the Marzell ridge and back through the Niedertal to Vent; walking time 5.5 hours
Total Route
Ascent: From Vent to the summit approx. 7 ½ hours walking time
Descent: From the summit to Vent approx. 5 ½ hours walking time
Arrival
Public transit
Travel comfortably and safely by train to Ötztal train station. The final stop or exit point is the ÖTZTAL station. Afterwards, travel conveniently and quickly by public transport or local taxi companies through the entire valley to your desired destination! The current bus schedule is available at: http://fahrplan.vvt.at
Starting point
Getting there
Vent is located in the west of Austria in the state of TYROL, in a southern side valley of the Inn valley - the ÖTZTAL. For your car journey, plan the optimal travel route from your home with the route planner online: https://www.google.at/maps
Parking
In the mountaineering village Vent, the following parking options are available.
- In summer in front of the village (parking meter, coins or EC card only) and at the valley station of the chairlift (at the ticket office of the mountain railways)
- In winter only at the valley station of the chairlift
Parking fee applies!
Current information
Warmer than recently
Good weather for outdoor activities
The tour is within these protected areas.
Equipment
Appropriate equipment such as breathable and weather-appropriate outdoor clothing, ankle-high hiking boots, wind, rain and sun protection, hat, possibly gloves, is required for all hikes and tours. Bringing a first aid kit, a mobile phone and possibly a hiking map as well as sufficient provisions for hikes without the possibility of stopping is necessary.